Can the Wakespeed be changed to handle a 5v intiate signal?


  • I chased this half the day today.  Got all the wiring done and in place, etc, Wakespeed programmed to my specs.

    Turn the key, NADA.  Not even a blink out of the Wakespeed.

    Checked the power and ground, both just fine at 12.5v.

    Decided to check the intitate wire to see if it was broken or something.  It was used on my Charles regulator and worked fine, but things have been tugged and spliced so possible.  It checks at 5.6v?  Traced and tore apart all the harness that have been added over the  years and tracked the initiate wire back to the conversion plug that plugs into the factory harness for intiate to the alternator and field percent back to the PCM. 

    I pullled out the factory service manual for the 07 Chevy Express 3500 van that the class B RV is made from and it appears that the initiate is a logic signal from the PCM so would be 5v like all the other signal voltages, I think.  Makes sense anyway.  Wakespeed needs about 9v so never even tries to start.  I jumpered the initate to the power in and started the engine and the regulator ramped up and was at proper voltage.

    It is a long shot, but if the intiate voltage could be changed in the Wakespeed that would be easy.  Finding and connecting a start/run wire in the van is not fun as everything is crammed up under the dash.  Probably is in the steering column big harness that is coming down out of it.  Wiring for the PCM under the hood is much worse as you have to lift the entire unit and harness and turn it over to find the wires.  Not really hot on tapping one of the sensors or accessories as they go on and off and don't want to mess with signal dropping too low to the Wakespeed.

     

     

     

     



  • Having the WS500 enabled at a lower voltage would likely require hardware changes.  If it were my installation I would try a simple 5/12V buck boost device like this

    https://www.electronics-lab.com/project/5v-to-12v-step-up-dc-dc-converter/

    My only concern would be making sure the 5V output has enough current capacity, otherwise you would want to go with an externally powered version


  • Yep, those are possibilities, but as said I don't want to risk the current avaialability risk of using a data line to actually run anything.  There are wires shown in the diagrams off the ignition key switch that are full voltage lines, but of course the bundle of wires out of there is quite large due to all the other stuff in the column.  I might get lucky and find one of the other add on items was wired into the ignition source and make it all easier to find.


  • @Jim use a small 5V relay.


  • Sometimes it is quicker to install one new wire from the key, instead off finding the correct wire in a cable loom.   I don't prefer the extra relay, only when there is no other solution.


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